The Edible South by Marcie Cohen Ferris

Author:Marcie Cohen Ferris
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: The University of North Carolina Press
Published: 2014-03-14T04:00:00+00:00

Jim Crow and the Southern Table, at Home and on the Road

Eating and drinking were at the heart of the exclusionary Jim Crow laws that dictated “separate but equal” facilities for blacks and whites. In the private domestic worlds of the segregated South, black cooks could prepare and serve food to white employers and their families but not eat with them, a ritual that suggested familiarity and equality.15 But what to do in public about eating and the “problem” of a rising middle class of black southerners who could suddenly participate in the region’s consumer culture as paying citizen-shoppers and diners? Whites were increasingly threatened by blacks’ changing economic position in society, and also by their demeanor. The old plantation-style deference exhibited by blacks toward whites was fading.

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